PAST 90 (6)
My first sight
of California was of rolling green hills. In profusion they marked a landscape
arrestingly different from anything I had seen before. It was Spring, probably
the year 1950. I could see the
green mounds up close from above because I was coming in low on a two propeller
plane; no jets yet in those days.
Cheap flights,
all I could manage on an organizing trip for the Labor Youth League (LYL), were
available on what were called non-sched airlines. It took us 20 hours, with
multiple stops, to get from New York to San Francisco. My plane was listed as “Viking
Airlines”. For all I know, it might have been the only plane in the “fleet”.
The return flight, a week or so later, was a story in itself that I’ll tell as
the coda to my first adventure in California.
I stayed with
Bill and Jeanne Lowe in a small rented Quonset hut in south Berkeley. Bill and Jeanne
were newly married, but to accomplish that, they had to go to Washington State.
Bill was black and Jeanne was white. Interracial marriage was illegal in
California in the early1950s. Many years later, the Lowes hosted a big event at
a downtown Oakland hotel to celebrate their 40th Anniversary with other
couples who had to leave California to marry, as well as the first couples to
marry after the state’s ban was lifted. Roz and I, living in California by
then, were guests. I remember how moved we were, and the memory comes back
often these days as gay couples win the fight for equal rights to marriage.
Bill was the LYL
organizer for Northern California, and he was my guide on this first trip to
the West Coast. He introduced me to many new things, some impressive and some
simply little tips to smooth my way. He took me to Columbus St. in San
Francisco, where an Italian restaurant served a seven-course meal for a dollar
or two (can’t remember the exact price, but it was important to me then). He
took me to a great ribs place in Oakland. He told me that the right lane was
best driving across the Bay Bridge. When we got up in the mornings, I noticed
that he slept in a nightshirt — that seemed odd to me at the time, but, soon
after, nightshirts became my favorite sleepwear.
The most
memorable thing Bill pointed out to me was on a drive to a meeting in Los
Angeles. We went through a valley town that featured a big sign; “No n-----s
after sundown.”
In Los Angeles,
during a meeting in a home, I experienced my first earthquake. That’s not quite
accurate. Everyone else experienced it and exclaimed “earthquake!” I hadn’t
noticed. The next day, in the same home, I felt a strong shake and exclaimed
“earthquake!”. The others had a good laugh — it was the washing machine that
shook the house.
Now for the
coda, my flight home. My “Viking” non-sched made a landing in Kansas City. The
passengers got off for a short break and a stretch. When we came back to board,
there was a surprise. The plane had been attached at the airport and we were on
our own. Stranded, and me without cash.... panic! But then I called home
and got the phone number of Roz’s cousin, who, luckily for me, lived in Kansas
City. I borrowed money to get the rest of the way home, this time not on a “non-sched”.
California has
so much incredible beauty. I can never get enough of it after living here for
more than 50 years, but it seems that’s not what I remember most about my first
encounter.
Post Script, 6/25/13 - I asked Jeanne Lowe to fact check my memory of the trip made 60+years ago. She writes: "We lived in Codornices Veterans Village, as did many other LYLers. I believe it was 1951 or 52 that you came here. We were married on May 14th, 1948. Later in '48, the California law was repealed." Jeanne went on to point out that federal law sanctioned state 'anti-miscegenation' laws until 1967, when the Supreme Court ruled them unconstitutional. Under these laws, Jeanne adds,"Caucasians were not allowed to marry Filipinos or Asians as well as Blacks."